Wednesday, January 21, 2009

La Vieille Ferme -Boxy Lady

Okay, I promised I’d report back on La Vieille Ferme’s new boxed wine, so, here we go…

But first, an anecdote (you didn’t think you were getting away without an anecdote, now did you?). Six years ago I was strolling down Rue Daguerre, a not-yet-touristy pietons in Paris, when I spied a shop full of small wine casks. Was it a winery? Nosy, I stepped in, and fortunately the gent running the joint spoke more English than I did French. He explained these casks were really bag-in-box wines. Instead of squirting wine from a cheapy cardboard box, you pour from a nice traditional looking small wine barrel.

Boy, wait till Franzia hears about this.

He tried to talk me into purchasing one, but I told him I didn’t think it would fit in my carry-on.

In any case, it reminded me that the French, while very traditional, are not afraid of innovation.

Fast forward to today, strolling through Freddies, and seeing a box of the La Vieille Ferme, NV (non-vintage) Cotes du Ventoux (red), $21. I’ve been a fan of this southern France producer for a long time, all its whites, reds and rosés. The red is a classic blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Carignan, and 15% Cinsault.

In the bottle they’re reasonably enough priced, under $10. But the box is the equivalent of four bottles, making it quite a deal.

But is it any good?

The first thing that struck me is how fruity it is. My recollection of the bottled wine is that it’s more lean and angular. But this is up-front fresh and pretty. After a while in the glass, however, the Grenache kicks in, and a kind of raw raciness emerges.

Maybe preserved in the bag keeps the wine fresh and fruity. But if you prefer it (as I do) a little more lean and food-friendly, pour it in a glass, and go for a walk around the block.

Speaking of which, I have some bad news. Last time I was strolling down Rue Daguerre that wine shop was gone. Maybe the French aren’t so forgiving of innovation.

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